ADOPT
A BUN
Housing
The size of hutch/cage
depends on various factors i.e. size & quantity of bunnies. the following
are some ideas regarding types of housing.
Hutches: We believe that all bunnies should be in the biggest
housing possible whether it is a hutch or Indoor cage. we believe the size
of hutch for bunnies who are only in it overnight is not as crucial as one
needed for bunnies who will spend most of the day in it. obviously if a bunny
is going to be kept outdoors it will require a good sturdy hutch and something
to cover it on cold wet nights i.e. tarpaulin. Bunnies can tolerate Cold and
wet but not both together. we would advise also to check the mesh on the doors
to ensure it is strong enough to prevent foxes (and we have heard of instances
where this has happened) etc from gaining entry, the chicken wire type (thin
diamond type section) is not suitable, the thicker square section is preferable.
Indoor cages: A lot of people these days seem to be plumping
for this type of housing, and there seems to be two distinct types, the first
is one with a plastic base, clear plastic top and metal grille in the roof,
the second is again plastic base, but with a plastic coated metal cage type
top with metal doors. we prefer the latter simply because this type comes
in larger sizes than the first and gives the bunny more room particularly
height wise, but provided the right size is bought either can be suitable.
Runs: Again as with the meshing on hutch doors the mesh on
a run is extremely important for exactly the same reasons, the proliferation
of foxes urban or otherwise makes it essential that the wire is strong enough
to keep them out. we would always recommend a run because it would get very
boring for any bunny to be shut in a cage day in day out and a bunny should
get exercise.
House rabbits/litter training: this may be the solution for
people who have not got a garden but would dearly like a bunny, rabbits can
be litter trained just like cats, but the bunnies must be neutered otherwise
it will be extremely difficult to train them. Once neutered they can be trained,
with, in our experience, males being the easier to train but with patience
females can also be toilet trained. Litter for the trays should be a wood
based one, Beauticat, Snowflake etc not the clay based ones which can be toxic
to bunnies. If your bunny does not use the litter tray where you have decided
to put it, it may be necessary for you to put the tray where they are spending
a penny and gradually move the tray back to where you want it.
Neutering: We believe all bunnies should be neutered for
various reasons, the first and most obvious is the prevention of unwanted
litters, but there are other equally good reasons for doing this. In males
it gets rid of a mature male's habit of spraying urine, which he does when
he kicks his back legs while spending a penny also it also rids the male of
the odour all uncastrated males seem to have. As for females the biggest concern
is the great chance of uterine cancer in females from about 3 years+, if she
is spayed this is prevented, also spaying can greatly reduce aggression in
female rabbits ( this does not seem to be the case in aggressive males who
do not seem to get any less aggressive after they have been neutered). Recently,
over the last few months we have received into the rescue female bunnies whose
age is approx 3yrs+ and a couple of them whilst being neutered have been found
to have cancerous growths. If your bunny is female and is old enough to be
spayed, PLEASE, PLEASE get her spayed, uterine cancer affects 90% of female
bunnies from about the age of 3yrs onwards, and having seen a couple of bunnies
who have had an advanced case of this can I say it is not a pretty sight
and I wouldn't wish it on any bunny.
Vaccinations: We can't stress enough the importance of vaccination.
Your new bunny/bunnies will need protection against VHD and Myxomatosis. VHD
is easily spread via clothing, unwashed hands etc etc. Both injections are
required once a year (though some people recommend the Myxi injection twice
a year). We recommend that vaccination is done around June time as the Myxi
season is generally around August, this will give the vaccination enough time
to gain full strength.
Introducing/bonding bunnies: Despite stories we have heard that some
breeders, and even some vets say this can't be done, we have had great success
in introducing bunnies to each other. We ask that anybody wanting a companion
for their bunny should bring him/her with them and we will endeavour to match
your bunny to suitable one here. It should be remembered that while we try
to match your preference to your bunny, ultimately it will be your bunny who
will make the final decision as to who he or she likes. One note of caution
when bringing a female for a companion, she may accept a male on neutral territory,
but when you get them back on to what she considers to be her territory, things
may not be quite so simple and patience may be required while she accepts
him onto her "patch".
Our belief is that rabbits should be in pairs, as they are very gregarious
animals, but we do not recommend putting a rabbit with a guinea pig because
for one the rabbit may bully the guinea pig and secondly the dietary requirements
of the two are very different, guinea pigs require a lot of vitamin c because
they cannot produce their own, but a vitamin c rich diet is likely to give
a rabbit the runs.
We hope the above is useful to you to help you when considering a bunny, any
further questions please contact us by emailing us at enquiries@suesrabbitrescue.org.uk
